BY MARY BEMIS

A FEW YEARS AGO, on a Silversea cruise, I sailed to one of the origins of spa: the famed temple of Asclepius at Epidaurus— arguably the world’ s first international healing retreat. Seekers once sailed there from all over the ancient world and then walked seven miles from the sea to its gates, where they shed their possessions and lay down among asps and adders. Today, the snake of Asclepius is entwined around the staff of the American Medical Association; so clearly, something worked.

I ponder this now, as spas of every kind are reimagining themselves once again as healing retreats. Whether for a day, a weekend or a week, these new retreats now come with a promise that has a very familiar and very ancient lineage: Immortal Zeus begat Apollo, who begat Asclepius, who offered the promise of immortality to humans, who begat Wellness, which begat Longevity— the shy but aspiring cousin of Immortality. It’ s a great story that never dies.

Spa is, and always has been, inextricably tied to the healing story it tells. Ignore that, and even the most sophisticated equipment rings hollow. The places that endure are those where great care is enshrined in great narrative.

Rancho La Puerta, now in its 85th year, still carries the vision of Professor Szekely, who came to Tecate, Mexico, following his Gospel of the Essenes in search of the world’ s best sunshine. Osmosis Day Spa, turning 40, remains true

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